Lower East Side Walking (and Eating) Tour
For many families (including mine), the Lower East Side was their first neighborhood after emigrating to the U.S. A walk around the Lower East Side offers a window into the history and food of several ethnic groups, as well as one of the trendiest new neighborhoods in NY. I have included many more stops than you are likely to be able to visit, but pick and choose those places you may find interesting (or delicious!).
The Closest major subway to our first stop is the Canal St. Station (6).
As you walk down Canal Street you can shop for $20 Rolex watches and "Gucci" bags. Don't pay what they ask, bargaining is half the fun.
Mott Street is one of the main grocery and restaurant streets in Chinatown. Check out the ducks hanging in the shop windows and tables full of iced fresh fish.
The Chatham Square Cemetery of Congregation Shearith Israel (America's first Jewish congregation. founded in 1654 and now located on the Upper West Side) had its first internment in 1683. It is the second oldest cemetery in Manhattan (Trinity Church at the corner of Wall St. and Broadway is the oldest).
Museum at Eldridge Street: The Eldridge St. Synagogue was built in 1887 and actively served the growing Jewish population until membership declined in the 1950s with the exodus of congregants to the suburbs. The main sanctuary was closed off for almost 30 years as the congregation could not afford to heat the large space, and services were held in a smaller space within the building. "Rediscovered" in the early 1980s, the sanctuary was meticulously restored, and opened to the public in 2007 as a museum and learning center. (Admission charge).
Prosperity Dumpling: Some of the best (cheap!) dumplings in NY are served at this very small storefront with a few counter seats. Vegetable dumplings, pork and chives dumplings (orders come either 8 boiled or 4 fried), and sesame pancakes (fried dough and sesame seeds) are the thing to order. Best shared with others.
The Doughnut Plant: If you prefer your fried dough sweet, save some room for the designer doughnuts here. First pick a style - yeast (fluffier), cake (more dense), or filled square, then one of the fun flavors (Coconut Lime, Blueberry, Vanilla Bean, Chocolate, Peanut Butter and Jelly, etc.). Sugar shock...
Henry St. Settlement: Founded in 1893 to help immigrant residents of the neighborhood, it continues to serve the community today.
Bialystoker Synagogue: Organized in 1865, moved to this location in 1905, a former Episcopal Church built in 1826.
Tenement Museum: Excellent building (with period actors) and walking tours explaining the history of the Lower East Side and the immigrant experience. Reserve a day or two in advance as the tours fill up. The street you are on, Orchard Street, was once filled with pushcarts and teeming with immigrants. Very good bookstore.
Kehila Kedosha Janina Synagogue and Museum: Built in 1927 by Greek Romaniote Jews. (Wikipedia entry).
Economy Candy: Sweet tooth? Shelves and bins of all the candy you can imagine. Save it for tomorrow.
Streits Matzoh Factory and Store: Ever wondered where all that matzoh on the Seder table comes from? The original Streit's factory was opened in 1916, but this location has been churning out Passover products since 1925. Call ahead (212-475-7000) to schedule a tour.
Pianos: A converted piano store (note the original sign in front), it is now a very hip venue for current indie rock. Nice spot to stop for a cold one.
Katz's Delicatessen (pictured above). The grandaddy of NY delis. Sure, there are uptown spots like the Carnegie Deli or the Second Avenue Deli (no longer on Second Avenue), but Katz's has been on this block (albeit around the corner for a while) since 1888. Known for their pastrami, and other huge sandwiches, you enter the store and are given a small pink ticket. The sandwich counter is straight ahead, and other counters (drinks, fries, soup) further towards the center of the restaurant. As you order items, each counterman will write your charges on the ticket. Don't lose the ticket, even if you don't order anything! You'll need to surrender it to the cashier on the way out. Getting a pastrami on rye? The counterman will carve an extra piece and put it on a plate for you to taste before he takes your order. Put a buck in the tip jar on the counter as the traditional thanks.
Russ and Daughters: Since 1914 the spot to get your smoked salmon, herring, and cream cheese. Even if you don't want to get whitefish for the bris, poke your head in and take a look.
Yonah Schimmel's Knishes: Since 1910 they have been churning out potato, Kasha, Spinach, and Sweet Potato Knishes. Check out the dumbwaiter on the left as you walk in. Frozen in time. Buy one or two and share. And get a Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray.
The Bowery used to be the home of winos and filled with flophouses. But it has cleaned up its act.
New Museum: Tired of eating and want some art? The very contemporary New Museum is a fun venue with a wide range of Contemporary Art.
It's a short walk to the Bleecker St. stop on the 6 subway. As you walk up Mulberry Street, imagine it as the heart of Little Italy, filled with Italian restaurants, bakeries, and John Gotti's Ravenite Social Club at 247 Mulberry from which he ran his Mafia operation (it's now a shoe store).
As you walk down Canal Street you can shop for $20 Rolex watches and "Gucci" bags. Don't pay what they ask, bargaining is half the fun.
Mott Street is one of the main grocery and restaurant streets in Chinatown. Check out the ducks hanging in the shop windows and tables full of iced fresh fish.
The Chatham Square Cemetery of Congregation Shearith Israel (America's first Jewish congregation. founded in 1654 and now located on the Upper West Side) had its first internment in 1683. It is the second oldest cemetery in Manhattan (Trinity Church at the corner of Wall St. and Broadway is the oldest).
Museum at Eldridge Street: The Eldridge St. Synagogue was built in 1887 and actively served the growing Jewish population until membership declined in the 1950s with the exodus of congregants to the suburbs. The main sanctuary was closed off for almost 30 years as the congregation could not afford to heat the large space, and services were held in a smaller space within the building. "Rediscovered" in the early 1980s, the sanctuary was meticulously restored, and opened to the public in 2007 as a museum and learning center. (Admission charge).
Prosperity Dumpling: Some of the best (cheap!) dumplings in NY are served at this very small storefront with a few counter seats. Vegetable dumplings, pork and chives dumplings (orders come either 8 boiled or 4 fried), and sesame pancakes (fried dough and sesame seeds) are the thing to order. Best shared with others.
The Doughnut Plant: If you prefer your fried dough sweet, save some room for the designer doughnuts here. First pick a style - yeast (fluffier), cake (more dense), or filled square, then one of the fun flavors (Coconut Lime, Blueberry, Vanilla Bean, Chocolate, Peanut Butter and Jelly, etc.). Sugar shock...
Henry St. Settlement: Founded in 1893 to help immigrant residents of the neighborhood, it continues to serve the community today.
Bialystoker Synagogue: Organized in 1865, moved to this location in 1905, a former Episcopal Church built in 1826.
Tenement Museum: Excellent building (with period actors) and walking tours explaining the history of the Lower East Side and the immigrant experience. Reserve a day or two in advance as the tours fill up. The street you are on, Orchard Street, was once filled with pushcarts and teeming with immigrants. Very good bookstore.
Kehila Kedosha Janina Synagogue and Museum: Built in 1927 by Greek Romaniote Jews. (Wikipedia entry).
Economy Candy: Sweet tooth? Shelves and bins of all the candy you can imagine. Save it for tomorrow.
Streits Matzoh Factory and Store: Ever wondered where all that matzoh on the Seder table comes from? The original Streit's factory was opened in 1916, but this location has been churning out Passover products since 1925. Call ahead (212-475-7000) to schedule a tour.
Pianos: A converted piano store (note the original sign in front), it is now a very hip venue for current indie rock. Nice spot to stop for a cold one.
Katz's Delicatessen (pictured above). The grandaddy of NY delis. Sure, there are uptown spots like the Carnegie Deli or the Second Avenue Deli (no longer on Second Avenue), but Katz's has been on this block (albeit around the corner for a while) since 1888. Known for their pastrami, and other huge sandwiches, you enter the store and are given a small pink ticket. The sandwich counter is straight ahead, and other counters (drinks, fries, soup) further towards the center of the restaurant. As you order items, each counterman will write your charges on the ticket. Don't lose the ticket, even if you don't order anything! You'll need to surrender it to the cashier on the way out. Getting a pastrami on rye? The counterman will carve an extra piece and put it on a plate for you to taste before he takes your order. Put a buck in the tip jar on the counter as the traditional thanks.
Russ and Daughters: Since 1914 the spot to get your smoked salmon, herring, and cream cheese. Even if you don't want to get whitefish for the bris, poke your head in and take a look.
Yonah Schimmel's Knishes: Since 1910 they have been churning out potato, Kasha, Spinach, and Sweet Potato Knishes. Check out the dumbwaiter on the left as you walk in. Frozen in time. Buy one or two and share. And get a Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray.
The Bowery used to be the home of winos and filled with flophouses. But it has cleaned up its act.
New Museum: Tired of eating and want some art? The very contemporary New Museum is a fun venue with a wide range of Contemporary Art.
It's a short walk to the Bleecker St. stop on the 6 subway. As you walk up Mulberry Street, imagine it as the heart of Little Italy, filled with Italian restaurants, bakeries, and John Gotti's Ravenite Social Club at 247 Mulberry from which he ran his Mafia operation (it's now a shoe store).
View Lower East Side Walking Tour in a larger map